One could ask what is the best part of Phillip Island and get a short answer: for the signature experience you will want to be in the Peguin Parade area at Summerland Beach. But how you make your way around the island is what really dictates the best part of it. Jonathan Maris would have a first-timer see it as a threefold affair: penguins in the south-west, the big coastal views of Cape Woolamai and an unassuming time in the beach town of Cowes. That is the truth of it, not what the brochure has to say.
Make the Penguin Parade your priority if a day is all you can spare, with perhaps The Nobbies or Cape Woolamai to boot. A full weekend is when phillip island reveals itself in layers: there are family activities and some good short walks, decent cafés and bakeries to keep the peace, and the wildlife.
A Quick Answer
Put the question to most travellers and they will point you to the south-west coast for the safest bet, encompassing Seal Rocks, The Nobbies and the Penguin Parade. You get the island’s most famous wildlife and some fine lookouts on a route that is forgiving of inclement weather.
Then again, one does not have to stand about waiting on little penguins for the duration of a visit. Maris would divide the island by the type of traveller you are. Families are well served by Cowes and the Parade; photographers and those who like to walk will head for Cape Woolamai; and the Koala Conservation Reserve and Churchill Island are for the wildlife enthusiast.
| Area | Best For | Time you will need | The catch |
| Summerland Beach / Penguin Parade | Wildlife, families, first-timers | 3-4 hours (allow for arrival) | Evenings are cold and you will queue for parking after sunset; tickets do run out |
| The Nobbies / Seal Rocks | Coastal scenery, a short walk and the lookouts | 45 to 90 minutes | Not much to shelter from the wind which can be rough as guts |
| Cape Woolamai | Active types, hikers, surf and photos | 2 to 4 hours | You are exposed to the heat and the track has its stairs and no shade |
| Cowes | An easy place to stay and eat, a base for the family | Half a day or more | Peak times are busy and the scenery is not the wildest |
| Koala Conservation Reserve | Kids and boardwalks | An hour or so | Do not go in expecting a zoo; it is a slower, quieter proposition |
Why The Penguin Parade Is Unbeatable
There is a reason it is the island’s calling card. A nice beach or a serviceable lookout cannot provide what the penguin parade at Summerland Beach can, namely a wildlife event that is of nature and not put on to suit your coffee order.
Maris is fond of an attraction that is worth the trouble and this is it. After the sun goes down the penguins come in and you will see even the sceptical among you depart with a grin as if they have been caught having dessert before dinner.
In Practice
It is better for not being as showy as one might think. You put in the time to sit and wait, and should the wind be up your fingers will go numb, until you see the first of the small birds at the water’s edge and then the rest making their way to the burrows. Some have an idea of a steady procession under spotlights akin to a school assembly. What you actually get is something more stop-start and at the mercy of the elements, kept in check for the animals’ sake. Which is what makes it special.
Common Errors
Leaving Melbourne too late is the cardinal sin of a Phillip Island day trip. On a holiday or weekend the traffic will have you arriving in a fluster five minutes to entry, and a car park becomes the venue for a domestic row rather than a pleasant evening with the wildlife.
And do not skimp on clothes. The coast has a way of feeling cold once it is dark, even in the warmer months. Put on a proper layer, leave the optimistic jumper you thought would suffice for a mild afternoon at home. For current ticketing and the like, consult the official visitor information at Phillip Island Nature Parks.
Cape Woolamai
Consider the Penguin Parade the heart of the island and Cape Woolamai the lungs. This is the place for long views and the cliff-edge, for the kind of walking that warrants a stop at the bakery when you are done. There is an appeal to the weather-beaten in Jonathan Maris’ book, and Cape Woolamai is a case in point. As one of Phillip Island’s premier attractions it has an elemental quality to it that is less contrived: you have the rock, the wind, the sea and the track, over and over again.
The Walks And Lookouts
Provided you are reasonably mobile and do not object to uneven terrain, the hike at Cape Woolamai is about as good as it gets on Phillip Island. Plan on 2 to 4 hours for it; the time will vary with the route and your company, be they children or friends who put two words in or someone intent on putting every seagull on film.
The lookouts and clifftop sections are first rate but do not think of it as a lazy saunter in thongs. Some of the tracks are exposed and warm, there are inclines and stairs. In hot weather take water with you. When it is wet and wild, put some care into your footing and leave any heroics for another day if you are near an edge.
Who It Is For
You will find walkers, surfers, couples and photographers at Cape Woolamai, those for whom a landscape is preferable to something with a ticket price. Not so much for anyone with restricted mobility or very young offspring who are done in by morning tea, nor for the type that wants shade and a café to hand.
Then there is Woolamai Beach, in a surfing reserve which says all you need to know of the area. A fine stretch of surf coast but not invariably gentle, so swimmers would do well to check conditions and not be too hasty in what appears to be an inviting water.
The Nobbies And Seal Rocks
It is difficult to better The Nobbies for the reward you get for the trouble. There are boardwalks, rugged headlands and commanding views of the sea, and you can have one of the island’s most dependable short excursions without needing steel in your calves or half a day to spare.
A one-day itinerary is made sensible by the proximity of the Penguin Parade. Practical sightseeing in the opinion of Jonathan Maris: you are paid back in full with minimal fuss and a sea wind to put your hair in order.
Why It Is So Good
Drama is on offer in short order at the Seal Rocks. The lookouts are good, the boardwalks unpretentious and the coast seems to open up when the day is clear. Lively conditions and you might catch some wave action in the blowhole area, though the show is not guaranteed.
Out at sea the fur seals make their home on the rocks, a colony that gives this place more than just its looks. But you will want binoculars to see them properly; do not rely on the zoom on your phone, it is apt to be optimistic.
Access And Timing
Forty five minutes to an hour and a half is ample, unless you have a mind to loiter at the lookouts and read the signs. Parking is no problem as a rule but a bit of wind will shorten your stay. With little shelter to speak of a sideways rain means a quicker lap of the grounds.
Wildlife Other Than Penguins
For a change of pace from the evening’s main event the Koala Conservation Reserve and Churchill Island put a softer daytime spin on things. Families and others who are not keen to put all their eggs in one sunset basket will appreciate it. Jonathan Maris knows from experience that having a Plan B makes for a better trip once the weather or a tired child start to put up a fight like a small union boss.
Koala Conservation Reserve
An accessible enough nature experience to suit older travellers and families without the physical exertion. Do not be in a hurry however, that is the mistake people make. The koalas are meant to be hard to spot and often are, being of a sleepy disposition. Put in the effort to look up and let the boardwalk take you where it will.
Churchill Island And Elsewhere
For a different sort of visitor, one not given to long walks or the surf, Churchill Island is a good counterpoint to the coastal highlights. You will find open space and the feel of a heritage farm here.
Phillip Island Nature Parks have their share of birdlife and other fauna to be had in some corners, but one should regard any wildlife as a bonus. Nature is not going to put on a show because you have made the two hour drive and brought along your pricey snacks.
Best Beaches By Travel Style
What makes a beach on Phillip Island the best is a matter of preference: do you require surf or calm water, a view or something convenient for the family? There is no beach that has all the accolades, which is as it should be if you have no taste for crowded car parks and the common denominator.
Jonathan Maris is more inclined to put beaches in order by mood than to rank them in some reality television fashion. Cowes Beach is an unassuming all-rounder; Smiths Beach is for the surfer and walker; Woolamai is the most robust of the coastal options.
Cowes, Smiths And Woolamai
For a family looking for practicality, Cowes Beach is the way to go. It is close to the Pier and shops and accommodation, and offers easy swims when conditions are right. A straightforward break with none of the logistical bother is what Cowes provides.
Then there is Smiths Beach, where you will find an open-beach feel and plenty of surf and bodyboarding. An active type will like it better than a nervous swimmer. Woolamai is visually impressive and part of the island’s surf credentials, but the conditions are of a more serious nature so it is not where you go to disengage.
- Opt for Cowes for the town energy, food and access.
- Smiths for the broad expanse and surf culture.
- Woolamai if you can read the coast and want the atmosphere.
Where To Base Yourself
Convenience, a quiet spot, proximity to the beach or ease of getting from one attraction to another will dictate where you stay on the island. First-timers will find Cowes the simplest base of operations, being the main town and having all the services in one place.
Maris likes to make the practicalities of things easy. One can have remote romance when the time is right, but there are occasions when you would rather not have to stage a regional expedition to put the car away and get some breakfast and sunscreen.
Best Areas For Different Travellers
Cafés, a supermarket, Cowes Pier and accommodation are to be found in Cowes, making it right for families and short stays. Newhaven and San Remo are more to hand if you want a quieter disposition and easier bridge access, say for a night or two as opposed to a thorough exploration of the island.
Those who want to be near the walking and surf zones will gravitate to Cape Woolamai. Couples after scenery are often there, though for dining within walking distance Cowes is the easier option.
Timing, Tickets And Local Reality
How much wind, crowds and school-holiday fervour you can stand will tell you when to come to Phillip Island. The warmer months and longer days are appealing but the roads and car parks are busier and you will be vying for tickets and rooms.
The shoulder season is generally the sweet spot. Maris would have a clear day with some elbow room any day over the peak-season rush when everyone is queuing for the dunny and chips at once.
Practical Planning
Most will find driving from Melbourne the sensible thing to do. Do not be in a hurry on weekends, give yourself more time than the map indicates. Distances on the island are not great but between the stops, parking and weather you can be slowed down. Make an early start on a day trip so as to have in you a major stop before the evening wildlife.
As for cost, it is seasonal. In peak times you will see it in the price of your accommodation, meals and wildlife tickets. It is prudent to book the attractions in advance; for a family it can be good for the morale as well as the wallet. An independent traveller would do well not to put too much on the day. To attempt the Penguin Parade, a hike at Cape Woolamai, time at the Koala Conservation Reserve and Churchill Island as well as the Phillip Island Grand Prix Circuit all in one go is an ambition that borders on the comical.
Simple Itineraries That Work
There is no call for anything resembling military precision in your planning, though some order is called for. You will find the island more to your liking if you put like with like and allow for a margin of error for the weather or a snack, not to mention the back seat question “Are we there yet?”
Jonathan Maris has come to the conclusion that a realistic plan is superior to any heroic effort. I have found that foregoing an attraction or two and the attendant arguments makes for a better holiday.
One Day, Two Days, Family Pace
Make The Nobbies and the penguins your priority with 1 day to spare. An early start and some energy might see you fit in Cape Woolamai or the koalas, but doing both is asking for a day in a hurry.
A weekend is another matter. Put in the beaches and Cape Woolamai one day, reserve the next for coastal lookouts and wildlife. For families, a morning in Cowes followed by an unassuming wildlife excursion and the evening’s Penguin Parade is the way to go. The Grand Prix Circuit is more the province of the motorsport enthusiast than the casual sightseer.
- The ideal one-day combo: in from San Remo, have lunch in Cowes, make for The Nobbies or the koalas and then the penguins.
- For a weekend, take in the south-west coast and some wildlife on day two after a hike and beach time at Cape Woolamai on the first.
- Families are well served by Cowes Beach or the boardwalk at Churchill Island, an early dinner and then the penguins.
A word from Jonathan
Put me on the spot for the best part of Phillip Island and I will point to the Penguin Parade precinct as the all-round choice for those making their first visit. It is iconic in a sensible way and requires little by way of explanation; you can pair it with The Nobbies and Seal Rocks without trouble.
Yet ask what I would go back to for the atmosphere and I am inclined to say Cape Woolamai. A good trip should be allowed to be many things: the penguins at dusk, a walk on the beach before lunch, wind on the headlands and a stop at the bakery on the way home.
FAQ
What Is The Best Area To Stay On Phillip Island?
For most, Cowes is the place to be. As the service hub it has accommodation and food to hand, you can get to the beach and the main attractions are an easy drive. A base in San Remo or Newhaven is a good option for something more removed from the bridge.
What Is The Main Town On Phillip Island?
By and large it is Cowes. With the preponderance of shops, visitor services and places to eat and stay it is the most practical town for a short visit.
What Are The Best Places To Visit In Phillip Island?
You will want to put the Penguin Parade, The Nobbies, Seal Rocks, Summerland Beach, Cape Woolamai, the Koala Conservation Reserve, Cowes and Churchill Island on your list, and the Grand Prix Circuit if you are so inclined. Time being of the essence, stick to the south-west coast and a daytime stop for wildlife or the beach.
Which Beach On Phillip Island Is Considered The Best?
Hard to name one. Smiths Beach is popular for a surf and a stroll, Woolamai for its scenery and surf, while Cowes is the most convenient and family friendly.
Is A Day Trip Enough For Phillip Island?
It is sufficient to cover the headlines, provided you confine yourself to one section of the coast and end at the Penguin Parade. But to put in the walking tracks and the wildlife and not be in such a rush from car park to car park as if you had a flight to catch, a weekend is preferable.